French champagne producers are trying to outfox the effects of climate change on their crops.
Already over the course of the last 20 years the French harvest has had to take place two weeks ahead of the traditional schedule. Even then the grapes are larger and the alcohol content has gone up by about one degree.
Warmer temperatures also decrease the risk of crop damage from frost.
So far, these factors have contributed to production.
But should average global temperatures escalate by five degrees Celsius by the end of the century, as some scientists have predicted, the changes could devastate champagne production.
Attempts are afoot to create new and more resistant grape varieties that will adhere to champagne standards. A 15-year programme is concentrating on the challenge to cross those grape varieties permitted for champagne, such as black Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and white Chardonnay, with varieties resistant to mildew and other diseases.
Changes in the environment can result in new microclimates where grapevine disease can develop.
Focus is also on finding varieties that mature late, according to the trade body the Champagne Committee which has teamed up with the National Institute for Agricultural Research on the initiative.
After the devastation of the phylloxera aphid in the 19th century, French scientists intensified the use of hybridisation as well as grafting to create resistant varieties. Most of the country’s winegrowing areas, including Champagne, benefitted.
Researchers today are hoping to follow that pattern by crossing high resistant and traditional varieties.
"We start out with a cluster of grapes just starting to flower which we fertilise with pollen from the variety that interests us. The first cross-breeding took place in 2015, the second in June 2016," said Arnaud Descotes, deputy technical and environmental director for the Champagne Committee.
He added: "This is nothing to do with genetically modified crops, but hybrids obtained through technology."
In six years, some 4,000 hybrid seeds will be ready for planting in Champagne, with researchers able to assess the final results only in 2030.
